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Amazing Argentina on Horseback

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Argentina – land of the Andean Condor, a place of mystical mountains and fluttering spring flowers, home to warm estancia’s and ranches to roam for days. Flowing Malbec and clear trout streams, rolling hills and steep mountain trails. Could there be a better place, apart from Kenya of course, to explore on horseback?

Felicia and I decided to lead a horseback safari to Argentina after this astonishingly beautiful country stole our hearts on our honeymoon. We started in the Sierras Chicas, a provincial reserve nestled between the Pampas and Andes, based at the Estancia Los Potreros. Here, on this working cattle farm, we settled into the comfort of a true colonial homestead with wood burning stoves to keep us warm and dulce duleche to keep us fat! Delicious Argentinian Malbec kept our veins pulsing, a perfect end to the busy days which were spent riding the hillsides, dabbling with Polo, and learning to lasso with the local gauchos. We were expertly hosted by the Anglo-Argentinian Begg family, who have been on this farm for decades. The Begg’s were one of the first families to bring in the dancing Paso horses from Peru. Alongside these unusual ponies known for their five different gaits, the Begg’s have strong, even-tempered quarter horses as well as agile, fast polo ponies. There was something for everyone amongst the stable of 130 horses. Much like our ponies, those on the Los Potreros ranch are free to roam the surrounding hillsides in their downtime, and lead wonderfully happy lives. When we returned to our home in the hills, we were welcomed by the energetic border collie and talkative Parakeet.

After four days at Los Potreros it was time to move on, and we flew south to Bariloche in Patagonia. Here, another four days of riding, exploring and enjoying exceptional Argentinian hospitality at Estancia Arroyo Verde.

Jagged mountains dramatically descend to the turquoise blue of Lake Traful – a blue so mesmerizing you have to see it to believe it. We rode through empty wilderness, up steep mountain trails and returned home to our estancia where the friendly black Labrador welcomed us in for pisco sours and asado lamb. Each night, we fell, exhausted and happy, into crisp white sheets, and woke again to the impossibly green lawns outside and the promise of another day’s adventure. Aside from the riding, we explored rock formations and old Indian rock paintings, and later on in our descent, the achingly high Coihue trees and the famous nesting site of the Andean Condor. For the keen anglers amongst us, fly fishing beckoned from the icy clear waters flowing into Lake Traful, where salmon and trout could be cajoled out of the water for our pride, and released back to enjoy life. The Lariviere family have lived at this estancia for 80 years, and today are as much involved as ever. Meme Lariviere runs the ranch with her three daughters, all of whom are happy to share their lives with guests – making it an especially magical experience.

We planned this trip as a one-off, but it’s hard to let go of Argentina, and we feel sure we will be back there soon enough!

A Scottish Safari

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From the warmth of the African plains, hot dust underfoot and bright sun overhead, to the misty, rain soaked hills of Scotland. I started first in the seaside town of Oban, seagulls screeching overhead as a grey and hostile sea battered in from the West. From there, a short journey to a private estate on a distant island, where for several days my Scottish safari trod over sodden clods to climb munroes and descend into glens, all in search of red deer. The bellow of a stag in rut echoed along the contours of the hill, and a short glass away, hinds glanced up from their quiet grazing. The rain lashed horizontal, occasionally parting to reveal turquoise skies with bright shafts of sunlight over foaming grey seas, illuminating clumps of purple heather, fragile yet fiercely strong in this harsh environment. Jodphurs switched for tweed, the shimmer of a mirage for mist, and the flatline of an African horizon for the jagged peaks of the mountain.

Safaris Unlimited, Blog, Gordie Church, Felicia Church, Family, Safari, Africa, Kenya, Children

On Safari with Safaris Unlimited’s ‘Little People’

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Business is family, family is business. I was brought up acutely aware of Dad, and Safaris Unlimited – I knew about the seasons that were busy, and the safari seasons that were quiet. Sometimes the results manifested in how many holidays we could go on, but more often than not, I knew because of how many truck rides I took out into the bush to the start of another safari.

From an early age – around nine – I was part of the crew. Travelling with the band of men that made our safaris what they were, we would leave Nairobi with a truck full of horses and camp equipment, and make our way down the escarpment into the Great Rift Valley, across the floor of this yawning natural marvel, and up the Mau Escarpment on the other side, before dropping down into the endless yellowed plains of the spotted land (‘mara’ in Maa – the language of the Masai – means spotted land).

Today, although Tyga and Thego remain too young to travel with the crew, they do come with us on safaris. They come with their own vehicle, Felicia at the wheel, and a tent that is pitched a fair distance from the main camp to give them a little space of their own. They wake up to the sounds of nature, and shards of sunlight piercing the canvas windows. It’s never too early and we find the little people in our life bounce around with copious energy when we are on safari. Tyga and Thego will spend the majority of the day with the safari camp crew – of which there are 18 odd – being passed between loving and laughing father-like figures. They will sit on the tin trunks of equipment and watch as Kikole kneads dough for fresh bread, or climb onto the lap of our truck driver Karanja as he tells another of his soft rambling stories around the camp fire. When the tall, slim figures of the Masai arrive in camp, Tyga and Thego will reach for their beads and earrings, pulling on them for a closer look, whilst the Masai tell them about the wildlife they’ve seen during the day – and the calls they will hear in the night.

It’s life in a village; we like to think it’s how our ancestors existed when dwellings were caves and families were the entire extended community.

When we return home, Tyga and Thego have their own rooms in our house, but there is always something to go and watch – horses being groomed and schooled; cars being maintained, hay being stacked, camp equipment being mended and washed, dogs to walk and parents to distract. What would life be without the little people in our lives?

Tony Church 80 Years Safaris Unlimited Africa Kenya

What it looks like to have 39 family members on safari!!

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Last week, we celebrated my father’s 80th birthday, in typical “Church” style, by mobilizing no less than 39 family members to a camp in the southern corner of the Mara Triangle, for five nights. The idea was to bring our own tents, and camp in a style not dissimilar to how my Papa would have started out with Safaris Unlimited. It was five days of absolute bliss, and a celebration befitting of a man who was one of the original pioneers of safari in East Africa.

Felicia and I were already in the Mara with the family, so we made our way over to Kishanga Campsite together with a team of our longest serving staff members – many of whom worked with my father from the early days. The air was brimful of excitement as we drove towards the Tanzanian border and our camp – nestled amongst a riverine forest of shady trees. My father and step-mother were already in camp having arrived a day earlier, and true to form Pa had mapped out exactly where he wanted everyone to be.

Our tents looked through the dappled light cast through the canopy over a small river to the yawning yellowed plains beyond. My sisters camped in Safaris Unlimited tents, whilst the rest of the family brought their own. We set up a kitchen tent, which bulged with culinary contributions from the family. The staff had their area neatly arranged and set to work with organizing the camp. Hot water by Kioko, lamps and tents by Makau, Ruth and William, the kitchen by Francis, Sarah and Vincent, cars by Karanja, and children by Martha, Helen and Esther. Quite an army! But then we were never very good at understaffed occasions, and Dad did send us all an email before the safari reminding us that ‘any fool can be uncomfortable’.

The four days were spent in glorious repose; with the grass so long that only the truly dedicated ventured out on long game drives, whilst those of us with smaller children preferred to languish in camp and venture into conversations of real depth and meaning – only really achievable with that most precious of assets: time. Oh, and a lack of distractions (read: no mobile phone network). We set up a bush cinema using a sheet and some string, and a projector that ran off car batteries, and showed a short movie of my father’s early days. Nostalgia reigned. We ate, and drank in Roman style, and told stories of Pa. Memories poured out. We made speeches and partook in quizzes. Laughter tinkled through camp. It was the ultimate slow-safari, surrounded by family, the blood that ties us to each other the strongest.

Jumping on Horseback Safaris Unlimited Africa Kenya

How We Match Our Guests To Our Horses

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Matching guests to horses is a delicate balance, which requires a little bit of science and a little bit of art. Our horses are various sizes, temperaments, and heights, which is a little like the riders (!) so before coming on safari, we ask our guests to send in their height and weight, as well as their competency on horseback.

This might include how many years they’ve been riding, what pace they are comfortable going at on a horse, and how skilled they consider themselves to be as a rider.

In turn, we know our horses as though they were our own children, and their temperament is key to ensuring a comfortable safari for all our guests. Most of the time we get it right, but sometimes after a day or two in the saddle, we make a change when we know the rider will benefit.

Felicia is something of a horse whisperer, and alongside schooling the horses, she also practices Bowen therapy on them, and spends quite a lot of time speaking to them. She’s completely in tune with the horses, knowing when they aren’t quite right, and spending a little extra time with them to try and get them back on track. It’s rare that we find ourselves out on safari with any issue – all our horses absolutely love being out and about on safari. They thrive on the wide open plains, and love the freedom of journeying from one camp to another, an experience which our riding guests also adore by the end of a safari. As one guest put it “no field will ever be long enough, now that I’ve ridden in Africa”.

The Man Behind The Name

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We tracked Gordie down in between safaris to ask him a few questions that would give us an insight into the person he is.

What’s your first safari memory?
Being on safari in Amboseli, which is in the southern area of Kenya. Memories of enormous Tortillas acacia trees, snow on ‘Kilimanjaro’ and terrifying Masai warriors with spears.

What do you love most about being on safari?
I love the escape. Exploring pristine wilderness under canvas far from urbanization, is a real privilege.

What’s the name of your safari horse and why is the horse called that?
My safari horse is called Mshale, meaning ‘The Arrow’. It represents that he is fast, stealthy and fearless – qualities that are imperative for a lead horse.

How do you switch off?
Evening walks at home on the ranch, with all my family and dogs.

Where do you go on holiday?
We usually head to our family home on the southern coast of Kenya and bathe in the warm waters of the Indian Ocean, and when we are in need of a complete change, we will head to the Alps and go skiing.

Was there a moment when you knew that you loved Felicia and you knew that she would be an amazing partner with you in SUA?
Yes – in fact there was. Felicia & her horse Kashan suddenly submerged into a muddy waterhole, far deeper than they both expected, and then reappeared, as if it was all part of the ride, less a stirrup, less a little pride, but hey-ho – on on, as they say. I knew that she was made of strong stuff!

What’s your biggest dream or ambition?
I would love to journey to South Georgia Island & Antartica.

Safaris Unlimited Best Horses 2017 Kenya Riding Safaris Africa

Horses of the year 2017 – our four top performers.

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Recognising and rewarding our hardest working horses is a big part of celebrating an amazing season! It’s also an important ritual for us, because our horses are such a key part of our lives. So we started our ‘Safari Cup’ in 2010 to make a real fuss out of our top performers.

Our Safaris Unlimited “Safari Cup” is awarded to the horses that have completed the most safari days in each particular year. In 2017, we had a busy year, but four horses in particular performed fantastically!

Caprivi ~ This Warmblood x came from Zambia and is a real favorite of the Safaris Unlimited guests. He is forward going with a fabulous jump. Caprivi has his quirks, but we love him for it.

Chemilil ~ Somali pony x Thoroughbred. A true champion that never misses a safari. He is one of our oldest team members, but you would never know it apart from his greying face. Cheeky as ever, unties or chews through his rope and partial to the odd nip. Watch out for your macadamia nuts and oranges during your picnic lunch!

Bariloche ~ Thoroughbred. Off the track and trained to jump. A lovely brave ride. He is a very kind horse with a loving personality.

Mshale ~ Boerped. The real winner and legend of them all. Gordie’s beloved lead horse. He fearlessly guides his herd of four legged friends through a plethora of wildlife across the Masai Mara, time and time again.